Decorative Table Aprons – Bring back the simplicity and rustic appeal of an old farmhouse with these easy-to-build plans. Crafted from solid pine, this farmhouse table will add character and depth to any dining room.
Select panels directly. Tip: Think of the board as an arrow on a bow and look down the length of the board to see if it is straight. Tip: Choose wood panels with imperfections, cracks and knots to add character. To save time, go to a hardware store to cut the boards according to the cut list. Work on a clean, flat surface large enough for the project, always wear safety glasses and ensure adequate ventilation when painting.
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Measure and mark all joints with a carpenter’s square. Pre-drill pilot holes for all connections. Attach the ends of the apron to the sides of the apron with two inch screws and glue. Attach the beam to the sides of the apron with two inch screws and glue. Check the corners for a square with a carpenter’s square.
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Turn the table frame over so that the beams are flush with the table top. Mark the center of the apron and the joist ends, 18 inches from the outside of the side aprons. Apply glue to the table frame. Place two table boards on the table and align them in the center of the table frame. Screw the end to the end of the apron with two inch wood screws. Tip: Make the screw holes to create an even pattern.
Apply glue to the exposed tabletop frame and place the rest of the tabletop boards on the frame. Align the ends with the central boards of the table top. Only screw the end to the end of the apron.
Turn the tables. Screw the strips to the countertop boards with two-inch screws. Use two joist screws for each table top board.
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Attach the legs to the inside of the table frame with two inch screws. Attached to the outside of the side apron with two inch screws. Tip: Do not use glue so the table legs are removable for easy storage and movement.
Fill the open screw holes with wood filler and let dry. Sand the entire table with medium-sized sandpaper. If necessary, fill the holes with wood filler and let it dry. Sand with medium grit sandpaper, followed by fine grit sandpaper. Vacuum table with a brush with soft bristles to remove sanding residue. Wipe with a damp cloth. Apply wood conditioner, stain and clear coat for a beautiful wood finish. Apply a primer, three coats of smooth varnish, and then a clear coat for a long-lasting finish. Tip: Sand the edges before applying the clear coat to create a weathered finish.
Don’t let unsightly cables and cords clutter up your living space. This DIY floating shelf has a built-in power extension hidden in a drawer – the perfect place to charge your phones, tablets and other gadgets out of sight.
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Do you need additional outdoor furniture? These sturdy nesting tables can also serve as extra seating in any outdoor space. Check out the step-by-step instructions for this easy woodworking project.
Real stone surfaces out of your price range? Get the look of Carrara marble (for less) with our easy DIY.
Learn how to make a three-sided cube that can serve as a table and a pet bed.
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Whether you have a large family or always host large gatherings, an extra large table is a must. These tables are made for your biggest gatherings.
Noodles by the pool in the bedroom? Yes, it sounds sketchy, but trust us – if you can handle a mess, you can DIY this dreamy headboard. Dive in! This post is part of a series of posts on building a rough wood table. Check out my original post introducing the table and all the posts for the series – How to Build a Farmhouse Table (Harp Design Imitation).
In this post I show you how I made and assembled the apron pieces.
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What size apron pieces do you make? You do this by drawing up the size of your table (mine is 44 x 84 inches) and how much you want your table legs to overhang (mine has 3 inches of overhang). To get my long apron, I would take the length of the top (84 inches) and minus the length of the overhang (3+3=6 inches). I have 78 inches left and need to subtract the thickness of the legs (3.5+3.5=7 inches) which gives me 71 inches. You will do the same math for the shorter pieces of the apron.
To determine the length of the two center strips, you take the width of the table top (min is 44 inches), minus your overhang (3+3=6 inches) and how much your aprons are inserted from the legs (. 5 =.5=1 inch). That leaves me with 37 inches, but I still have to subtract the thickness of the long aprons (0.75+0.75=1.5 inches), and a total of 35.5 inches.
I wanted my apron pieces to be 3 inches tall and the center frame and corner leg brackets to be a little shorter, about 2-3/4 inches.
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Cut all the details according to your sketch, but double check your math before doing so to be sure!
Use a dowel clamp to drill 2 holes on each end of your center clamps to match the size of the dowel you are using.
**From now on, everything we do with the apron pieces is oriented upside down to make it easier to line up all the boards with the work surface so it’s flat for attaching the tabletop**
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Mark on the inside or long pieces of the apron where you want to place the center line. Use the dowel center finders on the end of the subframe pieces, push them over the line to mark where to drill the other end of the dowel. Keep in mind that your apron is about 3/4″ thick, so you want the end of the dowel to be about 1/2″…that means the end that goes into the center strips can be longer.
Now is the perfect time to make the slots on the inside of the apron for the metal clips that hold the table top in place (unfortunately I didn’t do this until after I assembled it so it was difficult to to come as close to the table as possible). Corners as I wanted. I made about 6 slits along each long apron, 3 on the short, and 2 on each side of my center strip. You want to get slots that are as close to your legs as possible (avoiding where your angle bracket goes, of course).
TIP: Work on a test sample to get the correct slot height and depth. You have to think when you screw the table top you want tension between the apron and the top – I added just enough cardboard (+1/4″ layer) under my cookies to get the perfect height/level of tension.
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Sand all parts with grit 150. Sand all parts that will be inside with 180 grit.
Dry fit your parts to ensure a good fit, especially to make sure the dowels fit into the holes. Glue the dowels to the ends of the center brackets and tap them into place with a rubber mallet. Finish the ends with glue in the holes where the other ends of the dowels go.
Secure the center subframes in place to dry. While drying, I placed the legs and other pieces so that everything would be rectangular during drying.
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At this point, after setting up the legs and apron pieces, you can measure the length of wood you will need for your corner posts.
VERY IMPORTANT: You need to leave space between the leg and the angle bracket so that the legs will fit properly. You can imagine if you have done everything perfectly even, you can’t hold your legs very well. To provide clearance, I used some washers on the bolt hangers to make room for the next steps.
When you make the first angle bracket, make it longer than you think and cut the excess a little to the apron and legs. Make the remaining 3 exactly the same size.
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Mark the holes in the center of each angle bracket and the exact location of the bolts on your legs. Drill a little larger than the threads of the lifting bolts.
To see where to add the screw holes on the angle bracket, place the screw on top so you can see the correct location and depth. I marked where I wanted the head of my screw so I could shift correctly.
TIP: Place the screw on the “meatier” part of the angle bracket, not the delicate sharp edges.
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Run the line all the way forward from the top where you marked the screw location. Make the same line on the other sides of the corner brackets.
Use your handy 45-degree jig to drill the brackets. Install the depth limiter on the opposite side of the screw heads. I use a 3/8″ Forstner bit, but a regular bit will work too. Do this for all 4 holes on each bracket.
Now you can customize everything, including attaching the legs and corner supports
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